Shampoo without sulfates (SLS and SLES)

Before we talk about the best shampoo without sulfates it is important to understand what sulfates are. How do you know that these substances are in shampoo? There are more and more cheaper shampoo brands in the shops that are said to be 'sulphate-free'. Is this really so? And are SLS and SLES really that bad for hair? In this article you can read the sense and nonsense of sulfates. Let's start with what exactly SLS and SLES are and what they are used for in cosmetics.

What are sulfates, SLS or SLES

Sulfates are a group of cleansing foaming agents, namely Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES). Also called surfactants, or surfactants. These cleaners are often used in shampoo, but also in cosmetic products such as toothpaste, hand soap, (baby) bath foam and even face wash.

 

How sulfates are made

Sulfates are artificially produced in a laboratory, usually from a plant source that is subsequently chemically converted. SLES can be made from palm oil or coconut oil. SLS can be made from petroleum, coconut, or palm oil. And even though sulfates are made from natural ingredients, that does not mean that sulfate in shampoo is good for our hair. Nowadays, you see organic hair products without sulfates, parabens, and silicones increasingly often on store shelves. This is already a sign why it is better not to use synthetic additives such as sulfates on your hair.

How to recognize sulfates

On cosmetic packaging you can usually recognize sulphates by names that end in '-ate':

• SLS = Sodium Lauryl Sulfate / SDS = Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate
• SLES = Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate / Sodium Laureth Sulfate
• IF = Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
• ALES = Ammonium Laureth Sulfate

Why sulfate-free shampoo?

Sulfates can damage your scalp and make your hair dry, dull, and sallow. So, is SLS or SLES inherently always bad? This is quite difficult to say. Research reveals many conflicting results regarding sulfates. Some reports claim that SLS is carcinogenic and should be avoided, while other sources seem to suggest that SLS and SLES are not carcinogenic – but can be highly irritating to the skin. Even though there are officially no restrictions on the use of SLS in cosmetics, it is generally regarded as one of the most irritating surfactants. It is said to particularly irritate the skin, scalp, and mucous membranes.

Did you know? In research, SLS is often used to irritate the skin to investigate signs of atopic skin ? So why is the same substance used in cosmetics when it is known to irritate the skin? That is because SLS is relatively cheap. A small amount already produces a large amount of foam. And when mixed with salt, the product becomes thicker, making it appear as a concentrated composition. This is particularly useful when a product contains a large amount of water.

Did you also know that? SLS was originally (and still is) used as a floor cleaner, degreaser, and as chemicals in car washes?

Buy the four benefits of sulfate-free shampoo

To be on the safe side, opt to buy a sulfate-free shampoo. These are the four benefits of a good sulfate-free shampoo:

1. Preserves the hair's natural and moisturizing oils. Keeping the scalp's natural balance and moisture levels is one of the best benefits sulfate and silicone-free shampoo provides. This is especially important for dry and damaged hair. The better the scalp stays naturally hydrated, the better the condition of your hair.
2. Long-lasting hair color. Did you know that the best sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner also keeps hair color in your hair longer? This is really true! Shampoos without SLS can extend the durability and brightness of the hair color by four weeks or even longer.
3. No frizzy hair. Fluffy hair may have been fashionable in the 80s, today most people want to get rid of frizzy hair. One way to avoid frizzy hair is, as you can probably guess; shampoo without SLS
4. Reduce scalp sensitivity. Remember when we mentioned earlier that SLS and SLES can irritate the scalp? Sulfate-free shampoo can help soothe a sensitive scalp immediately. In addition, it makes hair softer and smoother. Especially if you combine it with a natural hair rinse.

“Sulfate or SLS-Free Shampoo” - really?

Some think that all shampoos in soap form do not contain sulfates. That is not the case. It is also good to know that many SLS-free shampoo brands proudly report that the products do not contain sulfates. For example, there is more and more cheap sulphate-free shampoo on the shelves of drugstores. But be careful! For example, these products often contain Sodium Coco Sulfate (SCS).

This is a form of greenwashing because the production process for Sodium Coco Sulfate is almost the same as for SLS. The difference is that instead of isolating just one fatty acid (lauric acid), SCS is made from a mixture of the fatty acids in coconut oil. This is therefore a 'clever' way to avoid having to list all the "fatty acid" sulfates in the ingredients list. Instead, Sodium Coco Sulfate is used by cosmetic brands as a name for a mixture consisting of: sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium caprylic sulfate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, sodium oleic sulfate, etc.

This means that Sodium Coco Sulfate can actually contain 40 to 50% Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)! So, check the INCI list of products carefully. Make sure you understand the listed chemical composition of the ingredients before purchasing a product.

Do you have questions about buying a shampoo without sulfates, silicones, and parabens ? Feel free to contact us. We are happy to help!

Do you want to buy a sulfate-free and natural shampoo bar but don't know which one you need for your hair type? Then read: the best sulfate-free shampoo per hair type.